If you know any avid divers who have been to Belize, do not ask them about it unless you have a few hours…you will not be able to shut them up.

Belize is in fact a tiny country, but not if you include the underwater wonderland that is adjacent to it. Then, at least in dive terms, it’s one of the largest countries in the world! Belize has everything you want in a tropical escape, but when it comes to the diving and the saltwater fly fishing, it is among the best in the world.

Though it’s probably smaller in total square miles of real estate than some counties in Texas, Belize offers more dive opportunities than you could possibly experience in a year.

With a bewildering array of big walls, barrier reef, open water atolls and islands, and plenty of sharks of all types, the fact is, diving just may be Belize’s biggest growth industry besides real estate. From coral gardens and stunning parrotfish to giant whale sharks, it’s all here, even for two-tank veteran divers who seek longer outings.

Unlike some Caribbean countries and most of Central America, you can dive year-round in Belize, right through the rainy season.

A few top places to let the air outta your tanks:

-Plancencia: According to Destination 360, which says the beaches at Placencia are the best beaches in Belize, this is perhaps the best spot to dive and relax on the playa. With way fewer people than Ambergris, you probably won’t see other divers in the water, either. The big draws here are Glover’s Reef and Gladden Spit. Southwater Caye and Tobacco Caye are also popular spots to jump off from Plancencia and connect with dive operators. Placencia is full of world heritage dive sites that have bewildering diversity, and the slightly more nutrient rich waters here compared to the super-clear north support more animals like the whale shark, which is widely regarded as being more likely to be encountered here than the rest of the country…and maybe the world. Brian Young of Seahorse Dive Shop has led expeditions for the Discovery Channel and CNN out of Placencia, and he and his divers log the migrations; May and June are peak times.

-Blue Hole: This famed limestone sinkhole has been a diving legend at the Lighthouse Reef atoll site since it’s exposure in the ’70s by none other than Jaques Cousteau. The Blue Hole is right in the middle of the reef and is over 300 feet wide and 400 feet deep, offering an ethereal experience of solemnity amid a world of great clarity, zero gravity and bathed in blue light. Cave-like stalactites appear as you go deeper into the abyss, and the water grows clearer as you descend. The Blue Hole is also a great jump off point for many other dives along the barrier reef.

-Ambergris, Caye Caulker: Plenty of resorts make this a popular dive central for most tourists, who exploit it’s convenience to Belize’s renown barrier reef. The reef swings in within just a mile or less of Ambergris and the waters here are extraordinarily clear, stingrays and sharks abound, and the Turneffe Islands are accessible. Coral pinnacles, grouper, lobster, angelfish, nurse sharks and eels are plentiful, as well as loggerheads.

-Hopkins Bay, Hamanasi: A renowned outfit and dive resort here, Hamanasi is a highly regarded jump off point to explore the world of the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef in particular, though the pro staff here branch out all the way to Lighthouse Reef and the Blue Hole as well. Turneffe Islands Atoll, The Elbow, Half Moon Caye, South Water Caye, Elsie’s Aquarium, Trick Ridge, Hell Hole, and The Abyss are all reached from here. Hamanasi also runs whale shark specific trips when the gentle giants congregate to feast on the spawn of the reefs snapper schools.

So tell your boss, spouse or whomever you need to that you’re taking them to Belize to relax, see the beaches and/or look at real estate…but get down here for the diving.

I was hot, and impatient, and growing more so by the minute. It was June 2005 and my first time in Belize, and I was waiting at the airport for a friend who was in Belize to fly fish and look at real estate.

I’m not the most patient fellow and neither is my friend, less so if anything. A tall, hard-charging sophisticated big city guy, he’s a born salesman who loves life in the fast lane. In the four years I’d known him at that time I don’t think I’d ever seen him without silk slacks and high-dollar dress shoes.

We’d crossed signals and were late to reconnoiter, and I could imagine what kind of mood he was in; the two of us would be a real pair until we could get somewhere out of the heat and relax.

So imagine my shock when a rental car pulls up in front of me, and out steps a guy who is a dead ringer for my tall friend, except it can’t be him. The guy is wearing sunglasses, a mostly unbuttoned Tommy Bahama shirt, board shorts and flip flops.

I know Mike couldn’t possibly even own flip flops, but to my shock, he waves me over with a big, casual grin, a cheery greeting to match the smile and fresh suntan.

He’d only been there two days before me but it was enough to make my hard-charging friend looked as relaxed as if he’d stepped out of one of those Jimmy Buffet novels.

His chill vibe was contagious and I very quickly forgot about how hot and impatient I’d been.

I have come to call this transformation “The Belize Effect.” It generally goes something like this:

DAY ONE: (early in the day)…”Where’s my hotel? Damn it’s hot. Is that a mosquito? Good grief these people talk slow….

(later in the day)…”Wow. I didn’t know they have mountains here. Look at that blue water. I didn’t know that color blue existed.”

DAY TWO: (early)… “Fish, scuba dive, hike…look at real estate…we’ll never get to do it all. What are we gonna do? I gotta budget my time…”

(later)…”Man, the air here is soft. How is air soft? But it is. Must be the ocean breeze. This place is like nowhere in the Caribbean. Look at that friggin’ palm tree. Wonder if I could climb it? I wonder how tall they grow? Maybe I’ll climb it after just one more pina colada….”

DAY THREE: (early)…”Look at that sunrise, man. Why do fish have to bite so early in the day? Where the heck is that other flip flop?”….

(later)…”I came here to slay bonefish but I’m starting to think a hammock beats a boat hands down.”

DAY FOUR: (early)…”Is it bad to drink before noon on a weekday? No way, relaxing is never bad for you…”

(later)…”During the weekday? Huh. What day is it anyway? I keep asking people but no one seems to be sure…”

DAY FIVE: “I’m getting a place here.”

…to be continued

The first time you see them, it’s hard to believe they call them ruins. Fact is, the Mayan descendents that function as your tour guide when you hike through the ancient ruins of Belize do not like them to be called ruins at all.

Carocal on the Belize mainland was not the Belize I’d imagined. My friends all showed me photos of their Belize trips…the usual island vacation stuff…blue water, palm trees, incredible diving, the fishing and all the flowery drinks and seaside hammocks you associate with Jimmy Buffet and Jerry Jeff Walker’ anthems.

Mostly, my friends never went to mainland Belize, where I am now. And as we start to ascend the Mayan temple deep in the verdant jungle, I can’t believe my eyes…and feet.

My shoes are traipsing over ancient stones, some of the steps raise up over knee high, and it is a bit of a grunt to get to the top.

But my breath is stolen for a different reason: I have ascended the tallest man-made building in the entire country of Belize: A 15-story Mayan pyramid that soars to 140 feet above sea level!

A friend on the trip summed it up best:

“It’s surreal, you’re walking through dense jungle, and it opens up and you see monkeys running around among all these huge rock structures built by hand without modern equipment.   How did the Mayans get these huge rocks up 140 feet to the top of their temple?”

The aura is astounding. You almost expect to see Harrison Ford burst from a tunnel pursued by brightly painted native warriors with blowguns.

The part of Belize I have grown to love, the central coastal region of the country, has all that same island vacation tropical paradise stuff, plus another world of wonders in the form of volcanoes, whitewater rivers, preserves where wild jaguars roam and of course the remains of Mayan civilization.

And a whole lot fewer tourists. There is plenty of room to roam, and to be alone doing it. In fact, 41 percent of Belize is nature reserve managed by the government or other organizations, and 70 percent of Belize land is still covered by some kind of forest.

Overpopulated Guatemala has depleted it’s natural resources, but Belize remains pristine…and full of mystery.

Around the ruins where we hiked, there are lots of structures still uncovered in the complex. Mounds of earth and ancient relic reclaimed by the jungle remain untouched because there is no funding to come dig them out. How much amazing architecture that was wa-a-a-ay ahead of it’s time remains hidden in the jungle here? No one can say.

On the temple, arches and rounded entryways boggle your mind, as you see first-hand where heavy stones were somehow fit together in a complex pattern to become solid, without mortar or cement. Holes in certain parts of buildings correlate with the sun angle at certain times of day – really advanced stuff.

Stuff you will not find on any of Belize’s wonderful, touristy islands nor any of the small private ones. I cannot wait to see what else the mainland holds!

I didn’t worship at the Mayan temple, but I think my heart started to worship this incredible little country a little.

But don’t look past Moon Belize (Moon Handbooks) written by former Belize resident Joshua Berman. He’s delivers a guide to some of the best experiences in Belize, from hiking waterfall, jungle horse-rides and diving the reefs. The guide covers the ground well and will give you all the tools and insight you need to experience the best of Belize.

The Rough Guide to Belize 4 (Rough Guide Travel Guides) is a comprehensive guide to the country and covers all the top attractions. The book also takes a detailed look at the region’s history, cuisine, environment and diverse culture and comes complete with maps and plans for the entire country.

Interested in diving while in Belize? Lonely Planet’s Diving & Snorkeling Belize explores 82 of the best dive sites off Belize, with full-color photos and easy-to-read maps throughout. Belize is home to the world’s second-largest barrier reef and three of the Western Hemisphere’s four coral atolls. Shallow reefs ring the more than 450 cayes and islets, while towering walls plunge into the sea. More than 400 fish species and a host of corals and invertebrates shelter in the warm Caribbean waters.

For more info or questions please email us at blog@threepalmsbelize.com