Rarely have I woken up on a Tuesday and had the distinct feeling that it might be Sunday. Only one other time have I ever had to shake the dust off my shoes before wearing them for the first time in days. In Caye Caulker, the days really do run together, shoes and shirts are completely optional attire. This is a very simple place and time is somewhat irrelevant. In recent years Caye Caulker has turned into a growing stop for tourists that come to Belize and it’s no surprise. La Isla Carinosa – the friendly island – Is what people think of when they visit countries like Belize. Similar to Ambergris Cay (without the t-shirt shops), it is one of the places that convinces you to come back again – once they visit the mainland and places like Placencia.

Despite the tourists having “found” Caye Caulker it has largely maintained its original feel, say the locals, and that makes it a more comfortable experience for them and ultimately for the tourists. I absolutely got that feeling: I found it extremely comfortable. The food was good; there were some very easy bars and cool beaches, fun shops, etc.

Marine biologists came en-masse decades ago when it was “leaked” just how cool the diving and marine life was here in Belizean waters. Then, about thirty years ago, the first hotel, El Pescador, opened its doors to guests and an outside world eager to experience the island life. Due to its location near the reef it’s great for tourists who want quick easy access to the reef. The marine biologists have been swapped for tourists and beach-goers. As the tourist trade grew the residents stepped up to host their guests and built or acquired facilities to accommodate them. Fishermen turned to ferrying captains, lobster harvesters began showing off their expertise to captivated tourists, and then came the golf carts, which shrank the island. Still, even with the influx of visitors this Caye has remained in the hands of its founding families. Native-owned mom-and-pop guesthouses, restaurants, bars, ice cream parlors, travel agencies, and dive shops have opened on inherited lands. Few of the families from the three-cent lobster days have chosen to leave, and those that have, for educational purposes, have come back to the only place they would ever want to live.

The Caye is a must see and a must experience. It’s a really superb easy getaway – even from my vacation in Placencia – and when I got back I felt a little more grounded and a little more at home…and after my dozen trips to this beautiful and diverse place called Belize it’s safe to say that this will be home some day. Put a day or two on Caye Caulker on the list right under (or over) visiting the ruins, paddling the caves or hiking the rainforests…but only after you get your fill of salt flats fly-fishing and magnificent scuba diving.

Can’t wait to get back… Bill